Basic Bath Bomb Recipe

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Any speciality products used (such as fragrances, colourants and molds) are from our Fizz Fairy website and are linked to be found and purchased through the site. Much of the additional equipment  that is shown in my social media and blog content, can be found in our Amazon Storefront. I've only included products I've personally tried that I think work great for makers, or that are a close match in case a product is sold out. I hope this is helpful in your creating and crafting, especially for our Canadian customers also using Amazon.ca!

When I first started creating, I remember scouring Google, Etsy, Youtube - looking for (and sometimes paying for) the *best* bath bomb recipe out there. What I didn’t realize at the time, was how dependent each of these recipes was, on a perfect combination of so many varying factors: the climate, the humidity, the mold, the maker, the ingredients themselves. Sometimes, what worked for another maker *b*e*a*u*t*I*f*u*l*l*y*, never worked out for me. Similarly, recipes that turned out smooth and decadent my first try, had others frustrated, left only with a crumbly baking soda x citric acid mess. 

Over the years, I have tried dozens of bath bombs recipes, sometimes with a specific purpose in mind, sometimes to try out a new substitute, and sometimes just to switch things up. I can empathize more than anyone with the frustration of a recipe not working as planned, and the feelings brought on by all that wasted time, money and product. So, I wanted to start off my time working with Fizz Fairy by sharing my own personal, go-to, very-forgiving, easily-adaptable Basic Bath Bomb Recipe. 

I typically use this basic recipe when I’m looking to make a durable, frothy, fragrant bath bomb, that may or may not be intricately painted. This recipe isn’t meant to create a floating bath bomb, unless it’s very gently packed or used with a wide, shallow mold - so be mindful of that. Instead, this recipe is great for someone looking to make a smooth, durable bath bomb that is easy to paint and absolutely heavenly to experience in the bath. When marketing these types of bath bombs, I’d often call them “soaker” bombs, and sometimes incorporate heavier-weight oils or salts to make them even more luxe. However, with those additives comes weight - so, I learned to just accept that fact, and use this recipe to create purposeful, relaxing, skin-nourishing bath bombs that weren't bath-art focused. Depending on your personal preferences, as well as those of your customers, this basic bomb recipe may be a great choice for you! 

Ingredients:

Dry:

• 900 gr Baking Soda
• 450 gr Citric Acid
• 20 gr Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA)
• 10 gr White Kaolin Clay
• 8 gr Cream of Tartar

Wet:

• 30 gr Isopropyl Alcohol (91%-99%)
• 25 gr Fragrance Oil
• 18 gr Olive Oil
• 8 gr Polysorbate 80

Optional:

• Lake Colourant (or Bath Bomb Colourant of Choice)
• Bio-Glitter or Eco-Glitter
• Mica and Isopropyl Alcohol (91%-99%) for Painting

Equipment:

• Bath Bomb Mold(s)
• Scale
• Large Mixing Bowl
• Measuring Cup
• Tablespoon 
• Towel / Tea Towel
• Soft Cloth/ Paper Towel
• Safety Equipment (Gloves, Protective Eyewear, Mask)
• Optional but handy: Small Spray Bottle containing 99% isopropyl alcohol
• Optional but handy: Silicone Tray 
• Optional but handy: Tray/Baking Sheet

Keep in mind that if you think this recipe might work for you,  alterations and additions can easily be made. One of the reasons it’s my favourite basic recipe is that you can swap out the type of oil or clay, or incorporate some colloidal oatmeal, salts or dried florals without making any other changes. It can also be easily doubled if you’re looking to make a big batch of bombs!

Instructions:

Step 1:

Place your large mixing bowl on your scale. I like to use the “tare” feature after adding the bowl and every ingredient thereafter, so that I don’t have to keep adding the additional weights myself. Every time you “tare,” the scale will reset back to 0. You want to add all of your dry ingredients to your large mixing bowl, including the baking soda, citric acid, SLSA, kaolin clay and cream of tartar. Be careful when incorporating the SLSA as it can become airborne very easily, and can be irritating when in powder-form. I like to make a little divot in my ingredients, gently pour the SLSA into the divot, and then cover it with the surrounding ingredients. 

Step 2:

Gently mix your dry ingredients together. I prefer to do this using my hands, as whisking can also cause the SLSA to become airborne. Using a spoon can take a long time to ensure everything is mixed well, so gloved hands are a win here. 

Step 3: (Optional)

If you are adding a single colour, or a base colour, to your entire batch of bath bombs (using a lake, hybrid or dye), I recommend doing this now, by adding a small amount to the dry ingredients. You only need to use a small amount, as the colour will darken substantially after the wet ingredients are added. Generally, I tend to add a teaspoon for a lake, a 1/2 teaspoon for a hybrid, or a 1/4 teaspoon for a dye. Sometimes, when you add granular colourants, it can seem like there are crumbs or pebbles amongst the powder. You want to break these pieces up until they turn to powder as well, and incorporate it through your dry mix, again using your hands. Remember that less is more here! It is better to have a colour that is lighter than desired, as you can always add a little more colourant later. However, by adding a some now, you are better able to ensure a smooth colour through your bombs, and avoid having specks of white show through in your completed products. 

In the photos below, I'm adding 1 tablespoon of Fizz Fairy's Yellow 5 Lake to my dry batch, and mixing well. 

Step 4:

Remove your large mixing bowl from the scale, and place your measuring cup on it instead. Remember to tare once again, and then add all of your wet ingredients to the measuring cup. This includes the isopropyl alcohol, fragrance oil, olive oil and polysorbate 80. Using your tablespoon, mix these ingredients together well. My choice of fragrance oil here is Fizz Fairy's incredible Honey Clementine Premium Fragrance Oil. 

Step 5: 

Now you’re ready to add your wet ingredients to the dry ingredients. I recommend adding about 1/3rd of the wet ingredients at a time, and gently incorporating it into the dry as you go, to ensure a better distribution. Again, this is best mixed using your hands. After all your wet ingredients have been added, you want to spend a good few minutes working everything together. Lift the ingredients from the bottom of the bowl to ensure all your dry ingredients have been incorporated. You are looking for a texture that feels like wet sand. 

• If your mixture seems too wet: Try adding 20grams of baking soda and 10 grams of citric acid at a time, to help increase the dry ingredients. Mix well. Remember that you will only be able to do this a handful of times, before it throws off the relative proportion to the other dry ingredients. 
• If your mixture seems too dry: Try adding a few drops (or preferably a few spritzes if you have a spray bottle handy), of the isopropyl alcohol. Mix well and test again to see if your texture improves. If it is still dry, repeat the process. 

Step 6: (Optional)

At this point, you may want to add more colourant, bio- or eco- glitter, or you may want to divvy up your batch and incorporate different colours. Whatever process you choose, remember that less is more and that only a tiny amount is needed to create a colourful bomb and bath. Another tip to remember is that as the isopropyl alcohol evaporates from your bath bombs, they will dry and the colour will lighten. It also means that your mix will begin to harden if you leave it in the bowel too long. You want to make sure you're ready to mold your bombs after you merge the dry and wet ingredients. 

Step 7: 

It’s time to get your molds ready! Choose your mold(s) and ensure they are clean by spritzing them with rubbing alcohol and gently wiping them using a soft cloth or paper towel. If you do not have a spray bottle, simple swirl a few drops of the alcohol around the mold and wipe clean. Great mold options for this recipe include plastic hand molds, metal sphere and metal baking pan molds. Here, I'm using Fizz Fairy's Honeycomb Bee Plastic Hand Mold.

Step 8:

Take some of your bath bomb mixture and pour it into the mold. If you’re using a mold with a lot of detail, try shaking it back and forth to ensure the mix gets into those nooks and crannies. After I've filled about half the mold, I like to press the mix down a little, so that any details will be filled, but not too much as you risk your next scoops of mix to not adhere to what is already contained in the mold. I do this at about the level shown in the photo below, just gently press some of the mix down. 

Continue to add more mix, until only a few millimetres remain seen on the side of the mold. You then want to make a heaping mound of mix over the mold, that you will then firmly press down on, pressing evenly around the perimeter and centre of the mold. If you added too much mix, simply scrape off the excess and press down firmly on what remains. I like to focus on the edges to ensure my bomb comes out need and tidy around the sides rather than crumbly and fragile. 

Step 9: 

Prepare the surface onto which you will remove your bombs from their mold, and/or allow them to dry overnight. I always allow my bombs to rest on an old towel or tea towel, so my preferred method is laying a towel over a flat tray or baking sheet, so that it can be picked up and moved to allow the bombs to dry without actually touching them. 

Step 10: 

Time to remove your bath bomb! The town will provide some forgiveness in case the bottom of my bomb isn't completely flat, and this will help a little to ensure it doesn't crack in half. Carefully flip the bath bomb onto your towel-covered surface, and tap the edges using a tablespoon or larger. You'll want to use a hefty spoon this, the smaller ones often don’t get the job done. The reason for tapping the mold is to create air pockets to separate the bomb from the mold. I like to hold my mold in place with one hand, and tap with the other. Lift your mold directly upwards, if the bomb comes with it, or if there is resistance, stop and place it back down as you’ll need likely need to tap harder, or around the sides of the mold. 

Step 11:

Once your bomb is out, you can determine whether it’s acceptable and then you’re ready to make another! If you have any cracks or breakage, you can simply crush up the bomb and add it back to the mixture. Before creating another bomb, you want to repeat the process in step 7 and clean your mold. Cleaning your mold between bombs will help ensure no residue is left for the next bomb to latch into. Repeat until your bowl of mix is turned into beautiful bath bombs!

Step 12:

You want to allow your bombs to sit overnight, or preferably 24 hours, before painting or packaging them. This will give the isopropyl alcohol time to evaporate, leaving behind a durable, hard bath bomb that is well-equipped for whatever’s next!

I chose to paint mine, as you can see here. If you love these and would like a video tutorial showing how I paint these (or any) bombs, please drop me a comment with a request! <3 

These bath bombs have a shelf life of a year, but I always recommend people use them within six months so that they still foam and fizz nicely, while also still throwing scent. As with any both bomb, you want to ensure they are stored in a cool, dry location, away from little baby unsupervised hands. :) 

Please leave any comments or questions below and thanks for reading!

- Lindsay at Fizz Fairy

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